So British Fashion Council has recently posted the very much anticipated dates and full schedule of London Collections: Men S/S16 (12 – 15 June), at which I fully intend to be present. Of all the plans I have lined up for the next couple of months, I have to say this is probably the one I’m most excited by.
As many of you may remember, I was invited to several shows last season and I have followed up my attendance with a few write-ups in January but to celebrate my upcoming second season at one of the most important events in the menswear calender, I have just one more show review I want to share with you guys… and what better day to do it than #throwbackthursday? So come with me and I’ll show you around the weird and wonderful world of SANKUANZ.
Words & Pictures: Oliver @oliverinstead
The majority of you are probably unfamiliar with the name SANKUANZ so here’s a little intro to the brand and the team behind the black eyes and bold colours: SANKUANZ is led by Xiamen-based Chinese designer Zhe Shangguan. Having enjoyed success domestically with his mainline womenswear, Shangguang has teamed up with local young creatives to go global. The project’s vision is centred all on youth – youth of today, youth of different cultures and backgrounds.
Appropriately entitled Dolphin Hotel for its quirky, anime-esque dreaminess, SANKUANZ’s A/W15 collection was truly a breath of fresh air. Bright colour paint sprayed and splattered across, the runway was instantly transformed into a riot of fantasies with the lively designs. Under the loud circusy prints, there’s a certain eccentricity that flows with the plastic-fantastic fringe on the outerwear whilst maintaining enough usability like the backpacks, as prominent and practical as you like.
In terms of the styling, I find the colour co-ordinated woollen trousers most appealing – of course, the cropped cut just spoke to me and my love for rolled-ups on a personal level.
The models turned up in Fight Club-inspired make-up, big black eyes and even sore split lips – courtesy of Maria Comparetto. I had the pleasure of seeing these impressive powder work on the models’ faces off the stage, in the loo, the beautifully applied bruises really gave a bit of an angst to an otherwise fun and playful collection.
As this was the last of all the incredible shows I attended, the honour to be promoted to the frow (an amalgamation of the term ‘front row’) was not simply a privilege but also the best cherry I could’ve asked for to top off my first ever LC:M experience. So many thanks to SANKUANZ. Thank you, GQ China.